Every spring presents a monumental challenge — how to get non-stop color in my front yard flower bed. The bed gets half-sun, half-shade, so anything that needs full sun wimps out. For years, sun coleus was a go-to. It never failed, but it also isn’t grown for its blooms. I wanted something new and decided to find a substitute.
My discovery? SunPatiens. If the name sounds vaguely familiar, that’s because these plants were developed from the old-fashioned garden impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) that were such hits back in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. But Land o» Goshen, are they better.
In their defense, garden impatiens had filled a gaping void. They were one of the few annuals that bloomed well in shade, did so from spring until frost, and offered a raft of bright colors. However, without frequent watering, they fried in strong sun. Later on, a devastating fungus called downy mildew wiped out entire sweeps of them overnight. People were upset. Something had to be done.
Back To The Drawing Board For Better Impatiens
Gardeners turned to New Guinea impatiens, a hybrid of I. hawkeri. They resisted downy mildew, took more sun than garden impatiens, had bigger flowers, and often sported colorful, variegated foliage. But they too melted in full sun and needed lots of water. Plus flowers could be sparse. Back to the drawing board.
SunPatiens answered the call. They resulted from crosses between New Guinea impatiens and a number of Indonesian impatiens species breeders refuse to identify. (It’s very hush-hush and the plants are patented. They’re grown from cuttings, not seed.)
What Is So Great About SunPatiens?
Let me count the ways:
- They grow well in sun, part sun, or shade (though they flower less heavily in shade).
- They bloom continuously from spring (plant after your last frost) until fall.
- Flowers are huge, come in a wide range of colors, and bloom so heavily they nearly hide the foliage.
- While I wouldn’t call them drought-tolerant, they need much less water than previous impatiens. I water mine two or three times a week in hot weather. If you come home and they’re wilted, give them a quick soaking and they’ll revive without dropping flowers, flower buds, or foliage.
- They provide instant impact.
- They do great in borders, containers, and hanging baskets.
| Plant Attributes | |
|---|---|
| Common Name | SunPatiens |
| Botanical Name | Impatiens x hybrida SunPatiens® |
| Family | Balsaminaceae |
| Plant Type | Annual, perennial |
| Mature Size | 14-42 in. tall, 14-30 in. wide |
| Sun Exposure | Full, partial |
| Soil Type | Well-drained, moist, rich in organic matter |
| Soil pH | Slightly acidic to neutral (5.8-7.0) |
| Bloom Time | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Flower Color | White, pink, orange, purple, red |
| Hardiness Zones | 10-12 (USDA) |
| Native Area | Hybrid |
SunPatiens Care
SunPatiens are popular in the South because they can handle hot, humid weather, have few pest and disease problems, and don’t require as much watering as other impatiens. They can be grown in flower beds or containers, where they will provide you with months of color. Here’s what you need to know to grow them.
Light
As the name implies, SunPatiens can be grown in full sun. They may wilt if you allow them to dry out in the hot sun, but they will bounce back with water. SunPatiens bloom best with at least four hours of direct sunlight a day or in dappled sunlight. Expect fewer blooms in the shade. Try SunPatiens with variegated leaves in shady locations; the attractive foliage provides plenty of interest without flowers.
Soil
SunPatiens can be grown in any type of soil, including clay or sandy soil, as long as it is amended with organic matter. Loosen the soil to 6-8 inches deep and add 10-20% of organic matter such as compost, peat moss, or pine bark. Compost helps sandy soils retain more moisture, while coarser materials can help improve drainage in clay. SunPatiens should be grown in soil with a pH between 5.8 and 7.0, as very acidic or alkaline soils can prevent the plants from absorbing nutrients. Fortunately, SunPatiens is easily grown in containers in potting soil if your garden soil isn’t conducive to growing them.
Water
You can mulch lightly around your plants to conserve moisture, but make certain the mulch doesn’t come into contact with stems, which can cause disease. Water your SunPatiens frequently to keep the soil moist after you first transplant them. After two weeks, the roots will be established and you can reduce watering.
It’s usually best to water SunPatiens in the morning or evening while the plant isn’t under stress. They prefer less water than other impatiens. The soil should be dry at the surface and can dry out to 2 or 3 inches deep between waterings. Don’t panic if you notice your SunPatiens wilting in the middle of the day. Though they can suffer leaf scorch, SunPatiens should recover and hold onto their leaves and flower buds after a deep watering.
Temperature And Humidity
SunPatiens were developed to handle hot and humid summers, which is why they’re a favorite in Southern gardens. Hot, drying winds can suck moisture from the plants, but they should survive with water.
However, like other impatiens, they cannot survive frost. Do not plant SunPatiens in the ground in spring until all danger of frost has passed, and preferably not before soil temperature has reached 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Container plants can be brought indoors overnight if you are expecting the temperature to drop below 50.
Fertilizer
SunPatiens grow leggy and bloom less with heavy fertilizing, so it’s best to be conservative. If you will be fertilizing, apply a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote at 1/2 strength and scratch it into the soil. The fertilizer should last about four months. Or, apply a liquid fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro at 1/3 strength and repeat every three weeks.
Types Of SunPatiens
SunPatiens in the Vigorous Series grow to the size of small shrubs — more than 3 feet tall and almost as wide. While this means you need fewer of them for the average garden, they may need cutting back in summer lest they engulf other plants. Many prefer the Compact Series. These mounding plants grow 14 to 24 inches tall and wide. I adorned my garden with Compact «Electric Orange» (pictured above) to complement the yellow, blue, and purple perennials around them. The variegated leaves of the Tropical varieties have bright yellow centers bordered with deep green.
Potting And Repotting SunPatiens
Grow single plants in small containers or group three or five Compact SunPatiens in a large container for a big visual impact. You can also combine your SunPatiens with other sun-loving flowers. Single plants should be placed in a container with a drainage hole that is about 2 inches wider than the nursery pot. For a mixed container, choose a pot that is at least 14 inches wide. Fill partially with high-quality, well-draining potting soil. Dig a hole in the center and place your plant so that it is at the same level it was in its nursery pot. Fill in around the plant with soil and water well.
Containers generally require more frequent watering than in-ground plants do. If you have trouble keeping the plants hydrated and roots are beginning to emerge from the drainage hole, it’s time to move your SunPatiens to a bigger pot. Choose a new container that is about 2 inches wider and deeper to allow room for the roots to grow.
Overwintering
SunPatiens will not survive freezing temperatures, so don’t expect to keep them outdoors over winter in the Upper, Middle, Lower, or Coastal South. SunPatiens can grow and flower year-round in a frost-free climate like southern Florida. Though you can bring them indoors for winter, these plants won’t do well unless placed by a southern window with plenty of sunlight. It’s best to treat them as an annual in most of the South.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
SunPatiens can develop rot from soil-born fungi and water molds if they are overwatered or planted in heavy, poorly drained soil. They can also develop stem rot if you pile mulch against the plants. Yellowing leaves, wilting, discolored roots, and dark sunken areas on stems can all be symptoms of rot. Make certain your soil is well-drained and not allowed to remain soggy to help prevent these diseases. Water less frequently during cloudy, cool, or rainy weather.
Spider mites and thrips can infest SunPatiens. With spider mites, you are most likely to notice light-colored stippling and webbing on leaves before you see the tiny arachnids. Remove severely damaged leaves and spray off webbing and mites with a strong stream of water. Doing this frequently may sufficiently control the problem. If you use a miticide, spray the plants during cooler weather and make sure to get the undersides of leaves.
Thrips can scar and deform leaves and flowers. The insects look long and slender during all life stages, but the adults have wings. They are usually yellowish or straw-colored. Keep the area weed-free and the lawn mowed to help reduce their population. Horticultural oil or an insecticide containing spinosad can be sprayed directly onto thrips to kill them. You may need to repeat this a few times over a week to control them. Don’t spray open flowers, which could harm pollinators that visit the flowers.
How To Get SunPatiens To Bloom
SunPatiens produce the most blooms when they are provided with at least four hours of direct sunlight each day. If your plant is in a shady spot, consider moving it to encourage more flowering. The plants may not set buds if outdoor temperatures are below 55 degrees. You may need to wait for the weather to warm before blooms appear, or bring containers indoors at night to keep them out of chilly weather.
Common Problems With SunPatiens
SunPatiens have few problems, but sometimes improper care or extreme weather can affect them. Here are two common issues to watch out for.
Yellow Leaves
This can be caused by poorly drained soil, overwatering, or excessive rainfall. Improve drainage if possible and pull away mulch until the soil has a chance to dry out. Don’t water plants when the soil is already moist.
Sometimes yellow leaves can be an indication that your plant needs more nitrogen or magnesium, especially if it is growing in poor soil or a container. If you haven’t fertilized recently, mix 1 1/2 tsp. of water-soluble Miracle-Gro into a gallon of water, then add 1 tsp. of Epsom salt to the water to provide magnesium.
Scorched Leaves
Completely brown leaves or dry, brown patches on leaves indicate leaf scorch. This can occur from underwatering during hot, sunny weather or from hot, dry winds. You may need to water more frequently until the weather is milder.
Overfertilizing can also burn your plants. If you think this might be a factor, water deeply to help the fertilizer wash away. For container plants, empty the saucer underneath to discard the water.
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